WHY I SURF:

I need to feel alive and when I hit the 49 degree salt water of Steamer Lane, Santa Cruz, CA there is no question of that truth. From the initial, self-induced shock, immediately followed by a deep, pounding heartbeat; to the short rapid breathes and an ever widening grin with each stroke as I greet friends in the line up - each moment defines the experience.

It is also the rituals of a _dawn patrol_ session which are calming and comforting. Loading the truck, pulling on the rash guard, hauling myself over a fence that seems to get higher every time I climb it, the trek down the cliff, paddling out and carving a flowing bottom turn add a rythmn to my life that no other act can offer.

And as a husband, father, coach, dog-walker and employee and I have to slice out this time for myself or risk losing who I am. Its simple really... when I've taken care of myself I can better focus on how to serve others. Thats why my life is better when I surf.

/edj


S - serenity
U - utopia
R - return [i'm from Indo so the Pacific is my home]
F - flow